About 20km from the town I'm staying in (Sighetu Maramatiei) is a curious graveyard called Cimitirul Vesel or the Merry Cemetery. Every villager buried there is remembered with a wooden grave marker carved with a picture of the deceased and a poem, usually funny but sometimes sad or poignant. The carvings show people engaged in their favourite acivities, in their occupations, or in some cases how they died (like the poor fellow killed restoring the cemetery church). Public transport is thin on the ground so I got a lift from a glamorous off-duty police officer named Natalia (pictured here with her mum) who also insisted on paying my entrance ticket. That kind of hospitality is common in the Romanian countryside.