On my second night in Los Picos de Europa I was feeling a little tired, cold and grumpy when the cook at the refugio (mountain hut) where I was staying the night suggested I wander up a nearby peak to watch the sunset. I was sceptical - it was cloudy and freezing outside - but I took her advice anyway. She was right. Just before 9pm the sun appeared, lighting up the clouds far below as they rolled in from the Atlantic and treating me to the mother of all sunsets. Made all the discomfort worthwhile.